Vines it is!

‘Vines, I want to look out on to vines.’ Well, the Loire Valley certainly has enough vines to satisfy anybody.

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A client had recently asked me to find a house in the area around Bourgeuil, a name which instantly conjures up two of the Loire Valley’s famous red wines – the Coteaux de Bourgueil and Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil appellations or types.

The town of Bourgueil lies in the Parc Naturel Régional Loire-Anjou-Touraine (more wine names!), but was historically part of the province of Anjou.  Before the revolution, it was one of the administrative centres for the hated salt tax – la gabelle – where the government forced everybody over eight years old to buy a minimum amount of salt each week at a fixed price.

Bourgueil has ancient roots. The Benedictine Abbey of Saint-Pierre was founded in 990 by Emma of Blois on the site of a Roman mansio, a travellers’ hostel. Today’s visitor can see parts of the cloister, refectory, infirmary and a fascinating suspended staircase as well as visit the museum of arts and local traditions on the first floor.

But of course, Bourgueil is most famous today for its Appellation d’origine controlee (AOC) wine produces primarily red wine from the Cabernet Franc grape variety, celebrated by Pierre de Ronsard (“the prince of poets”), François Rabelais, the writer and satirist, and author Honoré de Balzac. Not to be forgotten the area also produces Touraine,  Crémant de Loire, l’IGP (Indication géographique protégée) Val de Loire and Loire rosé (dry and refreshing!).

Around four hours’ drive from Le Havre (six from the tunnel and Calais), Bourgueil also enjoys great air links: both Angers-Marcé and Tours are an hour away to the west and east respectively. The TGV from St Pierre des Corps (just outside Tours) runs a direct service to Paris from which you can easily reach Eurostar services and Paris airports.

What’s on the market?

Although Bourgueil itself retains much of its historic character and offers a pragmatic mix of the ancient and modern to the property seeker, it’s in the surrounding villages that you’ll find the houses with vines.

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A little to the east in the direction of Restigné, this 1800s longère, with an upper storey and extension added in 1946/47, lies in a street bordered by fields of vines. Built of stone and some block, with traditional crépi rendering and natural slate roof, it offers 145m2 of living space on a plot of 1800m2.

With tiled floors and ceiling beams, the sitting room, dining room and kitchen/diner provide airy downstairs accommodation with views on to the inner garden. Upstairs are three bedrooms, a bathroom and dressing room which could be converted into a second bathroom. A stone barn barn provides garaging and workshop with a kitchen garden and further grass area behind.  And the grapes are all around…  Asking price 189,000 €.

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A little further east towards Ingrandes a modern, well-specified house set in a traditional village is for sale at 206,000 €. Walking up through the many beautiful shrubs and perennials in the front garden you reach the front door opening on to a spacious entrance hall. A light and airy living room, fitted kitchen, four bedrooms and two bathrooms complete the accommodation. And there’s a terrific basement with the usual garaging, workshop and storage areas. At the back is a terrace and large garden which makes up the plot of 2600m2. And the view outside the front door? Rows of vines.

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A hop across the Loire, but only just, is a delightful 1970s house, often a category neglected by buyers. Priced at 189,000 € and beautifully maintained, it includes a large and light living/dining room (36.6m2) with French windows to a raised terrace overlooking the back garden. Three bedrooms, a fitted kitchen and two bathrooms, all tile-floored for coolness and easy maintenance, complete this floor. And again, there’s a large basement, this time with another kitchen plus an office, garage, another possible bedroom, storage and garaging.  The living room gives onto a terrace where you could easily imagine yourself with a glass of wine on a balmy evening – Bourgueil, of course.  And this terrace overlooks a huge garden, including a mini-park of over 6,000m2. And behind the trees stretch fields of guess what?

What about property prices?

In its second quarter report for 2012, the French estate agents’ association, FNAIM, noted that prices for all property had stabilized and even registered a slight fall back from 2011; market activity decreased by up to 15% in some areas compared with the same period in 2011 due to pre- and post-presidential election concerns, reform of capital gains regulations on property investment and second homes and the end of no-cost loans. Conditions for loans generally have hardened, including the requirement for a higher deposit. Thus, the global figure for home loans has halved and loan terms have shortened with a thirty year loan period vanishing. Prices are set to remain where they are for the rest of the year, with a possible softening even up to -3.5% by the end of the year in comparison with 2011. (Marché de l’Immobilier Ancien – Conjoncture au 1er Semestre et Perspectives 2012)

Bourgueil comes under the Chinon administrative area (arrondissement). The average price for actual sales in this area as recorded by the Notaires de France for the twelve months to 31 May 2012 for a 4 room house (reception + 3 bedrooms) was 136,500€ and for a larger 6 room house an average 160,100€. Three things to bear in mind: firstly, prices are averaged across near ruins in the middle of nowhere to state-of-the-art decorated smart town houses; secondly, there is a gap between asking price and actual sale price; and finally, taxes, agents’ commissions and notaires’ fees (approx 8-10%) are not included in these figures.

The property site Seloger.com records a significant drop in price per square metre in the Bourgueil area from a high of 1,890€ per square metre (End 2011) to 1,590€ per square metre (September 2012), based on weekly updates on asking prices. This reflects a heavy dose of realism by sellers. But it discourages potential sellers from putting their houses on the market. We have certainly found that house prices are negotiable apart from in the most prestigious areas. But the shortage in the supply of property has made it that bit more difficult to dig out the gems.

IMG_3254Time to buy?
If you are ready to go, autumn and winter are excellent times to buy. Apart from a few hardy souls, tourists have disappeared and you’ll be able to see the area as it really is.  And in winter, you may well see people wielding secateurs in the vineyards, tidying the vines and carrying out essential pruning.

Understandably, many people in the UK looking to purchase a property in France have been waiting to see what would happen to the pound/euro relationship. The pound has been steady gaining during 2012 and has been consistently above 1.25 euros for several months. With French property prices stabilising at a realistic level in a sluggish market a good offer can be negotiated with the help of an expert.

Buying a property is one of the most important purchases you ever make and involves a mixture of head and heart. Having your own independent property finder means you can select from a list of property tailored to your requirements from which the “lemons” have been excluded, but not the grapes. Professional finders can also guide you through the buying process and help you cross language and cultural barriers. And they’ll know where to buy the product of those lovely vines. Cheers!

Alison Morton runs an independent property finding company, Loire Thouet Property Search (www.ltps.fr) as part of FrenchEntrée Property Finders in the Loire Valley and North Deux-Sèvres. Contact her on +33 6 06 43 93 40 or at alisonmorton@ltps.fr

 

Why I love the south bank of the Loire

-2If you go south of the wine town of Bourgueil and cross over to the south bank of the Loire, you arrive in the Véron, the gentle green area where the two great rivers, the Loire and the Vienne meet. Running along the northern tip of the Véron is the evocatively named Quai de la Loire, otherwise the D7, an easy road paralleling one of the quietest stretches along the river. Charming villages built in cream stone with grey slate roofs and  interspersed with luxuriant green fields and trees are a joy to pass through. The view across the Loire when you leave Bertignolles is breathtaking. Perhaps you’d like to stop for some alfresco dining? Dotted along the route are picnic stops, parking and tables. And very few people to disturb you.

The D7 dips briefly south to cross the River Vienne near Candes-St.Martin where the Loire and Vienne join, the meeting point of three historic regions: Anjou, Poitou and Touraine. From the bridge you may spot one of the péniches with its black, flat hull topped by a brown hut-like superstructure at one end. The name Candes is thought to derive from a Gallic word for confluence; Saint-Martin was added officially as late as 1949, although it had been in common usage for many years. Evidence of Gallo-Roman occupation was found in 19th century excavations in the grounds of the Bishop’s Palace which crowns the hill. The beautiful cream stone village takes its name – and its main claim to fame – from the magnificent church which has succeeded the 4th century monastery where St Martin, the Bishop of Tours, died in 397.

Less historic, but very important, is the renowned ‘caviste’, Enfin Du Vin specialising in sales of St Nicolas de Bourgueil, Touraine, Saumur Champigny and Chinon, four of the famous wines in this area.

montsoreauOn to Montsoreau passing some imposing, pristine riverside properties, often owned by Parisians as second homes. Rarely on the market, but snapped up as soon as they are, they fetch a premium price. But it’s free to dream…

Commanding the river, Montsoreau was built in 1455 as a strategic fortress, to control river traffic between Chinon and Saumur. By the end of the 19th century, the castle was abandoned and in near ruins. Today, having undergone extensive renovation, visitors to the castle can see a ‘son et lumière’, a show with music and light playing out scenes of life on the river and, of course, the romantic legend of the Dame de Montsoreau made famous by Alexandre Dumas. But do climb up behind the castle and walk up through Montsoreau itself, a hidden delight of charming houses festooned with window boxes bursting with flowers.

Past Montsoreau, you have kilometres of vines and troglodyte buildings on your left and the Loire on your right. The delightful villages such as Turquant are a must-stop with, of course, a “dégustation” of local wine. While there are few shops along this route except in the larger villages, there is no lack of chic as well as informal restaurants to suit all taste and pockets.

-1At Le Marçonnay, near Parnay, you pass through the Greenwich Meridian – yes, really! Looking up, you glimpse one of the strangest sites, the troglodyte château du Marçonnay, one of the grandest troglo buildings along this stretch of the Loire. People lived in these spacious caves, adding facades, windows and doors and sometimes incorporating the caves into regular houses. And then there’s the vines, something that always entrances.

At Souzay-Champigny, the road becomes the romantically named Route des Ducs d’Anjou and the landscape widens out to include one of the many river islands. Blending in with the cream stone of the valley buildings, the château rises up from the road in tiers like a fairly-tale castle. On through Dampierrre and Beaulieu where you arrive at the famous home of Saumur bubbly, Gratien & Meyer, dramatically perched on the hill in front of the deep caves, then on to Saumur itself. But that’s another story…

 

Alison Morton runs Loire Thouet Property Search (www.ltps.fr)

Email: alisonmorton@ltps.fr   Blog: http://ltps-fr/blog/

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Five great things about the south bank of the Loire

1. Peaceful and luxuriant countryside, even in the heart of a popular tourist area.

2. Clean cream stone and grey slate roofed buildings

3. Vines stretching out in serried rows for hundreds of metres.

4. The result of the vines – red, white, rosé, bubbly – all available along this route

5. Troglodyte dwellings in the cliffs and even a château!

 

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Driving in France

Driving in France is slightly different to UK, here are some notes to read even if you are only coming here on holiday. But some of them apply to UK driving too!

First of all you drive on the Right in France, in a Left Hand Drive car, the opposite to UK, yes I know this is obvious, but one of my old work colleagues are stumped when he discovered this… his face was a picture when I told him you go around roundabouts the opposite way to UK as well!

  • Roundabouts – A good place to start.. don’t be surprised if no one indicates their intentions on roundabouts… that is just the norm over here. Also people tend to treat roundabouts as only having a single lane not multiple lanes. You get used to it! Oh and yes you go anti-clockwise on roundabouts.
  • Speed limits – On entering a village designated by the sign with a red border normally the speed limit is 50 kph unless there are signs to say other wise. National roads the limit is 90 kph unless signed otherwise. Dual carriageways tend to be 110 kph, but will be signed accordingly. Autoroutes (Motorways) are 130 kph, but during rain or adverse weather conditions the speed is reduced to 110 kph. There are sometimes lower limits for bigger vehicles and for cars with caravans or trailers.
  • Things you must carry:
    • Bulbs – A spare set of bulbs for your car, make sure they are the right type.
    • Hi Vis vest – Preferably one per person, but the drivers one must be available without getting out of the car, so under the seat or in the door pocket is a good place
    • breathalyser – A new addition this summer, carry two so you have one even if you have used one.
    • warning triangle – In case you break down, must be placed in the road to warn other road users.
  • Joining motorways – give way to traffic already on the motorway, don’t barge in, making people slow down to let you in.
  • Overtaking on motorways (indicators) – when people overtake on motorways in France they tend to leave their left hand indicator on all the time they are staying in the outside lane.  It stops people ‘tail-gating’ you. And they will return to the inside lane almost straight away.
  • Hazard lights when slowing because of an obstruction and you suddenly have to brake in France you must put on your four way hazard lights until the vehicle behind does the same and then you can cancel yours.
  • Speed cameras – unlike in UK speed cameras are not easy to spot, and there are plenty of them, with more being installed. Mobile cameras are common too and you can be given an on the spot fine. Vehicles can be impounded too in certain cases. Average speed cameras are starting to be introduced in France as well.
  • Road markings – A single solid white line in the middle of the road is the equivalent of a double white line in UK…. saves on paint I suppose.
  • Stop Signs – Stop and pause, imagine there is someone hiding in the bushes watching you to make sure you have stopped. It’s an on the spot fine if they think you haven’t stopped long enough. I make sure the car has come to a rest and settled on it’s suspension before then moving off if it’s clear or course.
  • Drink Driving – don’t drink and drive, simple. The limit in France is lower than UK so don’t be tempted.
  • Sat Nav and speed cameras – it is now illegal in France to have any device that warns you in advance of speed cameras, this includes Sat Navs, there is a hefty €1500 fine if you are caught too.
  • Lorries and how they overtake – you don’t get lorries having 5 mile drag races blocking the motorways here in France. Why they do it in UK beats me they will drive for mile upon mile with less than a half a mile per hour between them.
  • Head lights – If you are coming from UK don’t forget to put on beam converters on your headlights so you don’t dazzle on coming drivers. Also remember to only use your front and rear fog lights when there is poor visibility. Don’t leave them on because you think it makes the car look good!
  • Mobile phones: it is an offence to hold and use a mobile phone while driving in France. Hands-free use of mobile phones is not illegal. Though many drivers ignore this rule, traffic police are clamping down on drivers holding phones to their ears while driving, and drivers are liable to an on-the-spot fine.
  • Minimum age: The minimum age for driving a car in France is 18; thus no-one under the age of 18 can drive a car in France, even if he or she holds a valid licence in another country.

Overall driving in France is quite an enjoyable experience, the roads are not as crowded and people tend not to drive like there is no tomorrow, so slow down, take your time and enjoy the scenery.