The beautiful Vallée du Thouet
A hidden gem in ‘la France profonde’
At the crossroads of Poitou, Anjou and the Touraine, the River Thouet makes a natural link from Saumur on the Loire southwards through the northern part of Deux-Sèvres, through the Thouarsais to Parthenay, Secondigny and the Gâtine.
The contrast is breathtaking: leaving Saumur, the sophisticated, elegant Renaissance town where it joins the Loire, the Thouet winds through the chalk plains of the Thouarsais, some impressive riverside cliffs and on to the gentle Pays de Gâtine.
Montreuil-Bellay, south of Saumur, is a quiet gem of a medieval town with a ‘pepper pot’ chateau, an 11th century keep and fantastic views. On to Thouars, where grey slate roofs and tuffeau walls give way to stone or soft washed walls with terracotta tile roofs. Whether it’s the rich historical atmosphere of the castle, the Église Saint-Médard, the old town or the huge, bustling Tuesday and Friday markets and variety of eating places, Thouars, situated dramatically on a cliff above the Thouet has a great deal to offer the property owner (and the keen photographer!).
From the stunning Cirque de Missé and a detour to the remarkable Château d’Oiron, the Thouet meanders on to St Généroux. Walking the pilgrim’s path along the Thouet, the Grande Randonnée, the packhorse bridge, the 9th century church and stepping stones and fording places across the river mean you step back in time, almost literally! Airvault with its magnificent 11th century church, covered market, cobbled stones is a joy to explore and has a lively cultural and arts scene. Nearby, Saint-Loup-Lamairé is a medieval delight with attractive half-timbered houses, decorated with baskets of bright red geraniums and a striking 17th century château said to have inspired Charles Perrault to write ‘Puss in Boots’.
Further south, Parthenay boasts not only medieval fortifications and old quarter, but a lively cattle market and gracious 19th century squares and boulevards. Once an important centre of religious tourism, situated on pilgrimage route south to Compostela, it retains an international recreational link as host to the FLIP (Festival Ludique International de Parthenay) every July.
Finally, on to Secondigny via Pougne-Hérisson, centre every other year of story-telling world, you arrive at the source of the Thouet near Le Beugnon.
Apart from a rich profusion of wildlife along the river, there is plenty of scope for canoeing and kayaking, horse-riding, cycling, swimming and, of course, walking!
In essence, the Vallée du Thouet contains some of the most tranquil and undiscovered corners of France.
Alison Morton
February 2009
